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DREAM OR NIGHTMARE

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British homes across rural Bulgaria lie empty. Where have all the people gone?
 
Issue 66, March 2012


by Curstaidh Hoppe

By the dawn of 2002 most Britons’ optimism for the New Millennium was already fading. We began to realise New Labour was just Old Tory with a more sophisticated PR machine. The current economic crisis was beginning to look inevitable and the cost of living was on the increase. As a nation, we hunkered down and turned to our favourite distraction for solace and escape – television.

 

Programmes like A Place in the Sun and No Going Home held the nation captivated.

We watched as couple after couple said a tearful goodbye to friends and family, squeezed children, pets and garden furniture into shabby Transits and headed for Europe. We willed them to make it (if we deemed them nice), weeping with happiness as they produced their first bottle of Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

But clever editing and the expense of sending film crews on location meant we never actually discovered if they actually managed to sell the 5,000 litres they had personally handpressed or if they had remained living in that decaying farm house with no electricity or running water. But it didn't matter, as across the British nation, the seed was well and truly sown.

The dream of escape, of leaving the sinking ship of economic gloom for blue skies was born.

We laughed at their mistakes and cried at their failures. We watched them navigate bureaucracy and prehistoric plumbing, animal husbandry and homesickness. But the tedious and complex issues like children's integration into schools, serious health issues and foreign doctors, language learning and the wearisome daily grind of earning an income and functioning day-to-day as an immigrant were mysteriously never touched upon.

The idea of sun and escape was enough: we watched solely for distraction and entertainment.

That was until late 2001 and a particular episode of A Place in the Sun aired – at this point I should probably explain the premise of the show. An attractive female presenter, with a tenuous background in property sales/development and an impressive cleavage, takes couples to foreign climes to view homes within their budget.

This episode introduced us to the Smiths, who had the princely sum of five grand. The nation laughed heartily, but as we watched them snap up an entire farm near Burgas for £3,000 the canny Smiths certainly enjoyed the last laugh. It didn't matter that it was located in some bewildering ex-Communist land.

The nation was spellbound.

"Where was this place, Bulgaria?"

"How do we get there?"

"What's the limit on the credit card, Pet?" was the war-cry at Stansted airport the following summer.

Bulgarian real estate agents were only too happy to oblige. Considered successful prior to this if they shifted a few agricultural lots per year, they were now directing coach loads of land-hungry Britons towards isolated villages. As Brits surged through remote hamlets banging on doors and demanding that pensioners named a price, the property lust was visible, literally glinting in their eyes. Considered bonkers by the residents, they threw money where canny Bulgarians would never dream of treading.

"Nice view?" (Never mind there's no water or electricity.) "We'll take it!"

"Near a river? We'll have two!"

"Uranium mine? What's that?"



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Comments  

 
+1 #10 Tony 2012-05-07 10:00 Great article, though one, being married to a Bulgarian , that is very different to mine experiance . My wife and I met overseas , are both the same age,( another Brit/bulgar anomaly ) and came here simply because it\'s was my wife\'s home country. From my earliest visits in 98/99 and the start of the Brit buying boom one thing was and has been clear, if you pay peanuts , you get monkeys . I never found the place that cheap in terms of value for money , and even foundd it expsenive when comparing like for like location / quality / facilities. The village where we live is just 5km from a major town and house often go for 100k + and occasionally sell at those prices !

Anyway, the mad rush is over, and those left standing , most aren\'t sure if they\'ve lost / won or what the future holds for the ntion let alone personal investments, but win or loose, all i would say is that profiteering from Europes poorest nation and people was always going to be a risky business, and, if you believe in such stuff whip up a certain amount of bad karma :) …
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+4 #9 Expat 101 2012-04-29 00:13 Having spent the vast majority of my adult life, and most of my not so adult life, in foreign and strange places, I can fully understand how this article relates to expats in Bulgaria and to the mostly expat Brits that dominate the scene there.
We as expats tend to cling to anyone who, like us, is the fish out of water, in the hopes that they, our kin, understand us and have our back, but in fact, we sit in the pub, slag each other off, rip off the guy who was not sharp enough to “get it” in the first month, and we do this with a smile on our face. We are incensed when a “local” who clearly does not have the superior intellect of an expat, screws us on the price of a taxi or a load of building sand, we think we are better, but sadly, we are not, we are just migrants in this very interesting world of ours, and until we realize that, we are not better than the next guy, and never will be better than the people in our HOST country, the people who took us in and cared for us in the cold winter, the hot summer and the wet season. The sooner we realize that, the sooner we will be better off, accepted into the community, and live our lives in peace and harmony in said country.
Bulgaria is a wonderful country with huge potential and amazing people. We, the ones who can’t speak Bulgarian, can’t kill a pig, or breed a goat or ten are actually a joke in the eyes of the ones who can and do this on a daily basis. If we can’t poke fun at that, then why the hell bother to travel???
Love the writing Cursty! Keep it up and sod anyone that can’t poke fun at themselves.
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-4 #8 A Brit abroad 2012-04-28 00:00 It is true that a decade ago, the British public was being whipped-up into a buy-now frenzy by silly TV programmes and that too many Brits bought Bulgarian properties for the wrong reasons, such as "Bulgaria is the new Spain".

The end-state is predicably sad. Within two or three years, Brits were trading Bulgarian country houses - to each other! - in a ridiculous circle. Most lost money, time and nerves. Most are now out of Bulgaria, and their experiences are damaging Bulgaria's image. A few hardy souls (under a 10th of the original number?) have stayed-on. A good deal of them are at the mercy of local "minders" who overcharge for works and services and use the properties entrusted to them for ends which range from the nefarious to the relatively innocent (but nevertheless unlicensed). All of them are at the mercy of vicious utility providers who charge times more than UK rates for times worse services.

I am sorry, but I find the article rambling, incoherent, and leaving much to be desired. Surely, it would have been better to contact a handful of "stayers-on" and a handful of "givers up" and written-up their actual experiences, as opposed to producing what is no more than a stream-of-consciousness blurb of common assumptions that probably took all of a quarter of an hour to scribble!
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+1 #7 Kriska 2012-04-08 21:39 As long as there are budalas, there always will be tarikats. Quote
 
 
0 #6 Andy Anderson 2012-04-01 12:07 Hi Cursty, Sudan must have been interesting…and 7 years is a long time - what was your work there ? also journalism ? yes I agree there is a certain profile for brits, and perhaps also bulgaria did have a certain 'untouched' feel for independent travellers since previously ('45-89) most tourism was very controlled, and targetted to the black sea resorts, or one or two ski areas and much of the interior was unused to foreigners wandering around, and everything looked a bit old fashioned…previous to coming here i'd backpacked overland to India, HK, Australia, USA and the usual places and it did feel quite refreshingly 'new' here in the late '90's. .. the Sinclair book has been re-reprinted in 2010 after about 100 years out of print.. 'A Residence in Bulgaria. Or, Notes on the Resources and Administration of Turkey, the Condition and Character, Manners, Customs, and Language of the People'. Stanislas St. Clair, London. I've been doing some research here on the british consular papers of the 1860's and exploring life for brits in the ottoman times. Maybe you are familiar with Tam Dayell being from Scotland yourself ? one of his ancestors, Sir Robert Dayell, was the British Consul here in Ottoman Rustchuk for 12 years…and the town then was really like an oriental city…muddy streets, soldiers, wooden buildings, and half the population in turbans. When he returned to scotland to retire to his castle after Russe he apparently bought back with him his Turkish servant, plus a few carpets and set up a Pasha's room, so I assume he enjoyed it here…those were the days… So Beautiful Bulgaria project was nationwide, and the aim was to improve the decaying town centres after years of neglect, and instill optimism and also create employment - so the criteria was buildings should preferably be publicly owned, monuments of culture (i.e. listed bdgs), highly visible, works ought to be labour intensive rather than needing lots of money for materials, and we did schools, town squares, churches, roman castle, thracians tombs, museums, art galleries…lots of stuff over 10 years from 1998-2009 when it wound down. I was only there from 98'- '02 after which time international staff were replaced by national staff and less EU money. the outcomes were measured by 100's of project sites/bdgs renovated and man months of employment, and some training courses too for unemployed. was quite popular in the media, and became quite well known, and esp in the early years it was a key source of renovation and city improvements esp in the years of limited private investment. so i can send you the academic papers - which email ? Quote
 
 
0 #5 Cursty 2012-04-01 07:35 Once again, thanks for the info, the book sounds very interesting and it’s funny to think it’s all been done before, and over 150 years ago!
The ‘pioneer’ aspects that you mention are I think indicative of probably the type of people who come here. Having not travelled much outside of Europe they truly do see Bulgaria as the ‘Last Outpost’ etc, not a criticism, it just really does feel like the end of the earth!
I too came early (2001) and backpacked around the country. Having grown up in the highlands of Scotland I identified with the rural areas and desperately wanted to buy. And although it was cheaper then, I was only a student and had no funds. It was only after working for 7 years in Sudan (also for the UN- UNMIS) was lucky enough to finally purchase a house in 2008.
The Beautiful Bulgaria Project is interesting. Did it cover the whole country or just the north? Which buildings were selected? What were the outcomes? Also would very much like to see the academic paper you mention.
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0 #4 Andy Anderson 2012-03-31 10:52 Hi Cursty, i should add, I was working for UNDP at the time, which I why I was involved in the rural study - I came here in 1998 as Technical Director for the 'Beautiful Bulgaria' project run by UNDP with EU funding - which was about renovating historical buildings. During that time (in 1999) I bought an old house in the Stara Planina mountains for 2,500 USD, and this led to the then Ambassador (now Sir Richard Stagg HMA in Kabul) and I starting the study, and then me setting up a company based in VT to start selling/renovating houses. When I bought my house, I was to my knowledge, the only british owner in the the entire area, and there were no estate agents whatsoever selling to brits, bulgarian or otherwise. Never beleived how it would develop, and it would never have done without 1. bulgarian socialism ending; 2. internet 3. property boom in the UK..these things coincided around the turn of the last century…interest ingly though - in the 1860's in ruse there were more brits living here than now - connected with the railway building and maintenance on the Rustchuk-Varna railway line, funded and built by British companies. Quote
 
 
0 #3 Andy Anderson 2012-03-31 09:57 Cirsty, thanks for reply. I do think both property ownership and our empire history are involved here - perhaps both are connected - I recall one british agent setting up here (embarrassingly ) called his company 'The Empire's Last Outpost' ! - and the English speaking newspaper in Turnovo, run by Brits, which lasted for 2-3 years was called 'The Frontier Times' as if Turnovo was some kind of wild west area being tamed by Brits. The UNDP report not published - was written by me as an internal document for British Embassy/DFID - but a good paper was written in 2009 by an Bulgarian academic in the UK on subject. Can dig it out. But the sense of adventure and empire spirit are deeply embedded, I am sure this allows brits to have a 'go anywhere' attitude, and one way of establishing themselves is to buy a property. There is book published in 1860's by two brits who came to northern Bulgaria and lived in a village for 2 years ! very interesting observations..some hold true today ('A Residence in Bulgaria, St, Clair, 1865)They didnt buy but in the Ottoman times foreign ownership was also prohibited, and property ownership was limited to the few - in that respect you are right in that property ownership post-Thatcher became every brtis 'right'. Quote
 
 
0 #2 Cursty 2012-03-31 08:27 Thanks Andy,
Nice to hear from an agent involved directly- and from the beginning. And some very valid points; internet expanding, fly and buy holidays and the ‘style’ of house chosen by the Brits. To be honest I had no idea UNDP/British Embassy was involved in the process, it would be nice to see the report, is it published anywhere?
You mention the ‘sense of adventure’ shown by many who came and stayed and I strongly agree with that and should have elaborated more on that point. However I am not sure it’s from our history of Colonialism so much as our hunger for property ownership which has driven the rural Bulgarian property market.
It’s difficult to tell now, if there’s been enough immigration into some villages to save them from the inevitable. It looks like many post offices are about to go, unprofitable (yet essential) bus routes are being dropped and shops are closing daily. The face of rural Bulgaria is set to change irrevocably in the next 10 years, which communities will make it and who invested in these winners, only time will tell.
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+1 #1 Andy Anderson 2012-03-30 17:55 Interesting an enjoyable read, and as someone who started one of the first agencies in Turnovo, and helped Channel Four make the first programme of a Place in The Sun I plead some responsibility - but the story covers one side of the picture, though the portrayal above might be true of some. First, I would like to say that the idea for our company came out of a study led with UNDP and the British Embassy in 1999 where we studied problems of rural de-population in the Stara Planina Mountains. This led to a series of village-hall meetings where the local communities urged us to try and get investors for the many empty and decaying properties around the lovely mountains there - the idea was to encourage investment, tourism, renovating old buildings and work with local people to do this. To some extent this aim succeeded, but the sudden rise in global property market from 2000 created an enourmous contrast, and many came in to buy just an investment. As regards reasons - yes many quoted the weather, cost of the UK, but also crime, and 'too many immigrants '(never quite understood how moving to a bulgarian village was justified by this reason !) - also people had been pushed out of the property market in the UK, and chance to own a house, a base in bulgaria was a reflection of the globalisation of the property market, and migration aided by the growth of the internet at the same time which allowed a very rapid growth of the market as people could sit in the UK and look online, send emails and 'fly and buy' within a week. Having said this, I know of some positive examples, as you say, of integration and bringing in news ideas - as bulgarians went abroad to work, some brits came here to set up businesses and the two way flow has been a good thing, albeit with problems arising but that happens with new things. I do think that bulgaria's image has been improved a bit as a destination by the property exposure - before it was all mafia, and dodgy umbrellas on waterloo bridge, but people do know about some of the beauty of the country as well as a cheap destination for property - but then so was spain and italy and rural france when they first hit the radar. There is another side you didnt mention - I think our history of empire and global travel gives brits a sense of adventure. Though more germans come on holiday very few bought - the brits outstripped any group, and they are up for a bit of a challenge. Our local staff were a bit surprised by some of the old houses people were buying, but the brits launched into them with gusto, and a sense of wanting to restore and renovate. some failed, some succeeded. anyway, enjoyed reading your article, and my advice to anyone emigrating or buying property here is dont expect to make money, but do enjoy the country, and dont do anything you wouldnt do at home i.e. independent lawyer, survey etc …but perhaps most importantly …you dont need to buy a property to enjoy what Bulgaria has to offer. Andy Anderson (14 years in Ruse) Quote
 

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