MARIE DUMOULIN

interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff

French ambassador on nature, culture and Bulgaria's hidden gems

Marie Dumoulin 2.jpg

Before her arrival as ambassador to Bulgaria Marie Dumoulin held various diplomatic positions in France, Germany and Algeria. A woman of many diplomas and languages (Mme. Dumoulin speaks English, German, Russian and literary Arabic) she has settled down in Sofia remarkably well. For just a few months the French ambassador has explored the hidden corners of Sofia and Bulgaria in general to an extent other expats would require years to accomplish. Yet, Bulgaria, according to her, has a lot more to offer.

Did Bulgaria surprise you in any way when you first arrived here?

I had heard a lot about Bulgaria before arriving as I had Bulgarian friends, some of whom I have known for more than 20 years. So I thought I knew what to expect. And yet I was surprised in many ways: Sofia is a much more vibrant European city than I expected, it has a very dynamic cultural life and a highly creative artistic scene.

More generally, I was impressed by the vitality of cultural life all across the country and the intensity of ties with the French cultural scene. Within a few weeks after my arrival, I was invited to participate in a festival of contemporary art in Varna, with a special French focus, in a theatre festival in Plovdiv, where the director of the Avignon Festival Tiago Rodrigues presented his most recent production "The Distance", and in a festival in Lovech featuring a traditional dance group from the French town of Laval, and in many other cultural events involving French and Bulgarian artists. Unfortunately I couldn't attend all of them, but I was lucky to visit the international biennale of glass, which exhibited works by French artists, to attend the opening ceremony of Festival CineLibri in Sofia and watch the movie "The Stranger" by François Ozon even before it was out in France, and to welcome the famous French cellist Gautier Capuçon, who came for an exceptional concert with the Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra and maestro Nayden Todorov. It is a real privilege to witness such a lively cultural life and contribute to strengthening the ties between our two countries.

I am struck by Bulgaria's diversity, its rich historical legacy and its dynamic creative landscape.  There are so many treasures to discover, not only in museums!

Is Bulgaria known very well known in France?

In France, Bulgaria is certainly known and, increasingly, appreciated for the richness of its history and culture. It may be somewhat less familiar than some other countries in Central and Eastern Europe, but that only boosts the sense of discovery it inspires.

The ties between France and Bulgaria are both deep and multifaceted. They are historical, as illustrated by King Ferdinand I of Bulgaria, whose mother, Clémentine of Orléans, daughter of Louis-Philippe I, embodied a direct link with France. They are also cultural and artistic: many Bulgarian-born figures have left a lasting mark on French intellectual and creative life, from Jules Pascin and Georges Papazoff to Tzvetan Todorov, Julia Kristeva, Christo and Sylvie Vartan. In popular culture, this connection has also taken a particularly vivid form through the success of La Maritza, performed by Sylvie Vartan, a song deeply inspired by her Bulgarian origins, which enjoyed lasting popularity in France and helped anchor, in a sensitive and widely shared way, the image of Bulgaria in the French imagination.

There are also more subtle but enduring connections: the roses of the Valley of Roses, which have long contributed to the excellence of French perfumery as well as Bulgaria's strong and lasting Francophone tradition. Today, Bulgaria attracts growing interest in France as a country at the crossroads of cultures, with a remarkable heritage – its ancient sites, its landscapes, and its living traditions – still offering much to explore. In that sense, Bulgaria is not only known in France. It is increasingly recognized as a country of depth, refinement, and discovery.

Can you name three places in Sofia that you particularly like?

As someone who comes from a mountain region in France and is a keen hiker, I find it remarkable that Sofia lies right at the foot of Mount Vitosha. This offers a haven of nature and a perfect getaway just a few kilometres from the capital. It is a great privilege for me to be able to enjoy this breath of fresh air from time to time during weekends, even when my diplomatic duties leave me with little time. And seeing the mountains from the windows of my office is an absolute source of joy!

At a reception in honour of Sylvie Vartan, the famous French-Bulgarian singer and special guest of the 2025 CineLibri festival 

I also love Boyana Church and its quiet intensity. Its medieval frescoes, of extraordinary expressiveness, seem almost contemporary in their humanity. As you may know, one of the first scholars who studied the frescoes was the French historian of art André Grabar, who described Boyana as "the most valuable contribution to world medieval art". It is a place where Bulgaria’s deep historical layers become tangible and profoundly moving.

Last but not least, the National Gallery, especially Kvadrat 500, offers a remarkable overview of Bulgarian art, from the foundational figure of Zahari Zograf to major modern painters such as Vladimir "Master" Dimitrov  and Dechko Uzunov, alongside artists like Ivan Mrkvička and Nikola Petrov. I was lucky to discover this place very soon after my arrival, for the opening of an exhibition dedicated to the "Reichstag Wrapped" by  Christo and Jeanne-Claude and I keep returning there every now and then.

And three places outside of the capital?

This is a delicate question, because Bulgaria offers so much, and one would not wish to do injustice to its diversity. If I had to mention just three, I would probably name Plovdiv, which is the best illustration of a piece of Bulgarian land as a crossroad of civilizations as indicated by its unique layering of Antiquity, cosmopolitan wealthy trade between East and West during the centuries, its magnificent wooden house heritage and the thriving modern cultural life taking advantage of its historic cradle, through the many performances staged in the magnificent backdrop of the ancient theatre. It has a special connection to France as well, which dates back to the 19th century when French writer and diplomat Alphonse de Lamartine stayed there on his way back from the Middle East.

I should also mention Veliko Tarnovo, for its powerful historical dimension, as the medieval capital of Bulgaria and a symbolic centre of the Bulgarian National Revival that shines brightly on the rocky ridges and high slopes overlooking the Yantra river that flows through it, and where history seems to unfold in the very landscape; and the Black Sea coast, which combines natural beauty with a remarkable architectural and archaeological heritage. There the connections to France are also present – from the monuments honouring French soldiers who died and were buried in Varna during the Crimean war in 1853-1856 to the close cooperation between French and Bulgarian archeologists researching the excavations of the ancient Greek city of Apollonia Pontica.

But one should immediately add that Bulgaria's appeal goes far beyond any shortlist: its magnificent monasteries, not least Rila and Bachkovo, its museums, and its many archaeological sites bearing witness to the richness of Thracian civilisation make it a country of exceptional depth, where every region opens onto another chapter of European history.

Do you have a hobby? What do you like to do in your spare time?

I love reading and I am particularly happy to live in a country with so many talented contemporary writers – Georgi Gospodinov or Renée Karabash, who are very famous outside of Bulgaria, but also Teodora Dimova, whose novels delve into the legacy of history and its impact on individual lives, Kapka Kassabova and her explorations of Bulgarian borderlands, or the fascinating detective novels written by your colleague Dimana Trankova.

I was deeply moved by Victor Paskov's Ballad for Georg Henig, probably one of the most striking novels I read over the last years. The fact that his novel Germany, a Dirty Tale was first published in France, in its French translation, once again illustrates the deep intellectual ties between our countries and the role France played in bringing some of the brightest Bulgarian talents to the European and global cultural forefront.

Apart from reading, I love the contact of nature, especially in mountains. I went skiing as often as possible during the winter and I hope to manage to go hiking regularly over the spring and summer!

If you have visiting friends from France, what would you recommend to them to do?

I would quite simply recommend everything I have already mentioned: beginning with Sofia, then Plovdiv and Veliko Tarnovo, as well as the Black Sea coast, and Bulgaria's remarkable monasteries such as Rila Monastery or Bachkovo Monastery.

Visiting the Bulgarian Antarctic Institute in the company of Professor Hristo Pimpirev

I would also probably recommend them to take advantage of the numerous museums of fine arts, especially the galleries of Plovdiv, to discover the large range of highly talented Bulgarian painters, who deserve to be better known throughout Europe, particularly in France. And of course, I would advise them to visit archeological museums across the country, as there are fantastic collections even in small regional museums. I recently visited the Panagyurishte Museum, which presents remarkable artefacts, first and foremost the golden treasure of course.

And I would certainly add the mountains, which are among the country's greatest treasures: the Rhodope mountain range in particular, with its unique atmosphere and traditions, as well as the Rila and Pirin Mountains and the Stara Planina. Altogether, it is this combination – heritage, landscapes, and culture – that makes Bulgaria such a rich and memorable destination.

And what would you advise them against doing?

I would warn them of the risk of missing out on the advantage of tasting Bulgarian cuisine and wines, of going to the opera or the philharmonic, and of reading, once back in France, the remarkable body of Bulgarian literature available in translation.

In other words, I would strongly recommend that they avoid missing what makes Bulgaria so singular: its generous and refined gastronomy, its vibrant musical life – whether at the Sofia Opera and Ballet, with the Sofia Philharmonic Orchestra or smaller musical and vocal ensembles – and its rich literary tradition, now increasingly accessible in French thanks in particular to translators such as Marie Vrinat-Nikolov.

Because in Bulgaria, the only real mistake would be to pass by without truly experiencing it! 

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