Most spectacular ways to get from northern to southern Bulgaria, and vice versa

Communist-era hilltop monument sits in windswept dereliction

Off-the-beaten-track destinations combine nature, tradition, folk culture

For Bulgarians, Shipka Pass epitomises national liberation struggle

Ethno village proffers idealised recreation of long-gone Revival Period Gabrovo

For the modern traveller, the Stara Planina is probably Bulgaria's greatest geographical obstacle: a massive mountain range, crossed by narrow passes which are slow, full of bends, and often closed in winter. In the past, however, the Stara Planina was an effective natural protection against enemies. One of its major passes, by the 1,326-metre Shipka Peak, is one of the best examples.

Even before the day trippers have started their descent to Byala Reka, or White River, their uneven melody precedes them. After a while the singers themselves appear, hikers whose tiredness testifies that they have seen much more than just the Byala Reka Eco-Path.

Remains of mining disaster linger on near Vratsa

Kalofer is one of those places that all who'd rather avoid Bulgaria's highway pass en route between Sofia and Burgas, yet few bother to stop, and even fewer stay on. From a certain standpoint, this is positive. It keeps mass tourism confined to the highway, away form the town huddled in the foothills of Mount Botev, once known as Ümrükçal, which means Fist Mount – Stara Planina’s tallest summit at 2,376 metres. Kalofer is a pearl you will fall in love with. But to discover it, you need to make an effort.

Major river breaks out in Stara Planina, heading towards Black Sea