"WHEN THE CLOGS BLOSSOM"

In the 15th-17th century, the locals in the area of Kyustendil mainly cultivated watermelons, a little known fact as the Kyustendil cherries at the beginning of the 21st century are probably the best in the world. (Incidentally, at the opposite end of Bulgaria, in Lyubimets, where the world-famous watermelons are now produced, they once cultivated cherries. However, this historical transition from watermelon to cherry and vice versa, will be the subject of another study).

In the 15th-17th century the people of Kyustendil believed that their watermelons would grow bigger and sweeter in autumn if their clogs blossomed in spring. This explains why, around St Valentine's Day, every household in this western Bulgarian city would take out a pair of clogs, carefully bury them in the ground, and then have the youngest woman in the family diligently water them three times a day.

Around St George's Day the clogs would blossom.

At the end of the 17th century, however, dramatic climate changes occurred in Kyustendil. Initially, an increasing number of clogs would not blossom, and in the autumn the watermelons would grow smaller and less tasty.

The people of Kyustendil withered. Their prayers to both Christian saints and pagan deities went unanswered. The Kyustendilers found themselves in very dire straits: in 1699 they did not register a single case of blossoming clogs. "Let your clogs blossom" became an exclusive form of blessing, meaning a lot more than "May you have male offspring" or, indeed, "God be with you!"

No clogs have blossomed in Kyustendil since then, with the notable exception of 1922, when as many as four pairs showed off their beautiful light violet buds – to the amazement of the elderly and the joy of the children. Yet, no one grows watermelons in the region any longer. The erstwhile watermelon fields had long been planted with cherry trees.

In modern Bulgarian, "when the clogs blossom" means that something will never happen, even though the Kyustendil experience indicates that it would be more correct to say that something can happen when one least expects it.

PS Shortly before Vagabond No. 236 went to press the international news agencies disseminated a scientific report stating that watermelons were being cultivated in Lancashire as well, in the 14th-17th century. Remarkably, the people of Lancashire had a similar belief, but they expected their golf tees rather than their clogs to blossom. In what is an odd twist of history the last case of blossoming golf tees in Lancashire was in 1699. The phenomenon was described by a French traveller whose manuscript is kept in the British Library.

No watermelons have been grown in Lancashire since the 18th century (they grow a lot better in the south of France) yet, the people of Lancashire continue to salute themselves with "May your golf tees blossom!" I recommend anyone visiting Lancashire uses that greeting when they come across people in the street.