British ambassador on cycling, literature and Bulgarian luminosity
Before coming to Sofia as His Majesty's Ambassador, Nathaniel Copsey was the chief speech writer for the foreign secretary. As he covered the full range of UK foreign policy's issues, he had wide access and connections to the British and international media. With a background as an academic, latterly a professor of politics, Nathaniel Copsey focused on Europe, particularly the EU and Eastern Europe. He was involved in both the 2015 renegotiation of the EU treaty and the subsequent referendum in 2016. He then worked on Brexit and covered Ukraine, following Russia's full-scale invasion in 2022.
As we sit down to tea in the historical building of the British Residence, one of the most elegant edifices in central Sofia, Nathaniel says he will not divulge anything about his family to the press.
One of the things that impresses me most about our new Prime Minister, Keir Starmer, is that we do not know anything about his family. I believe he's married, I think he has children, but I do not know whether they are boys or girls, nor do I have any idea what their names are. I don't believe I have much in common with him, but we both did live in Kentish Town and occupied an office with a public element in it. He's chosen quite deliberately to keep his children out of the limelight. I suppose this is the right decisions. Yes, I do have a family, they are here with me, and we are having a good time. For us the transition from living in a London flat with one lavatory to this exceptional house in Sofia which has 18 lavatories, I don't know how many bathrooms, and a ballroom is a big change. Protecting children and private life from the public is, I think, a good thing.
First day in Sofia with the British Embassy team
Were you in any way surprised when you came to Bulgaria?
The luminosity. Anyone coming from the milder climes of Britain will feel they are walking from a black-and-white into a Technicolor movie. The sun here is so bright that the luminosity is extraordinary. Even well into December the southern sun is so dazzling that it frames everything in a way that's extraordinarily beautiful. It's quite magical.
Another thing that surprised me when I came to Bulgaria, and continues to surprise me, was the dynamism of the private sector. That's the thing that draws in British investment, particularly in the tech and financial services area. Recently we had an event for the Man Group, a huge British investment company – one of the oldest in the UK. They are creating over 200 jobs here at the very top of the value chain, very well-paid, high-skilled jobs. The situation is similar through the tech area. The government runs a balanced budget, taxation is very low here. Of course, there are pros and cons to that, but if you are running a private business, you can do very well. I was genuinely surprised at just how prosperous some parts of Bulgaria are.
On a visit to Smolyan
What do you do in your spare time? Do you have any hobbies?
Unfortunately, I do not have a lot of spare time, but when I do I revert to the hobbies I had in London. I have been practicing yoga for a long time. There is a very nice studio that I go to here in Sofia. In London I was a keen cyclist and I still cycle here. I have a 1975 Raleigh Wayfarer, British engineering at its best. I am sure it will still be up and running in 50 years' time. I admit riding in Sofia is a bit more challenging than riding in London, probably because the streets are narrower and people are not so much used to cycling as a means of transport rather than going for a weekend ride.
In Kapitan Andreevo at the border with Turkey, inspecting smuggling equipment seized by Bulgarian Customs; Interviewed by Bulgarian National Radio in Stara Zagora
I am also an avid reader. I had a lot of Bulgarian language training in the UK, a part of which is reading Bulgarian literature in Bulgarian. The first book I read in Bulgarian was Vremeubezhishte, or Time Shelter, by Georgi Gospodinov. A fascinating book which is not only about Bulgaria, but about Europe – and how Europeans view the present and the past. The other author I particularly like is Zdravka Evtimova. Some of her short stories are science fiction while others are magical realism. She focuses on life in smaller towns in Bulgaria, including some more difficult topics like domestic violence. Amongst the more classical stuff I like Aleko Konstantinov. The first book by him I read was To Chicago and Back. More recently I read a lot of Bay Ganyo. I know that character is controversial in Bulgaria, but Aleko's stories are not documentary. They are ironic and they are not supposed to be real life. They are funny. One thing that the British and the Bulgarians have in common is the ability to laugh at themselves. I say that with full respect: not taking one's self too seriously is a valuable quality. And I am not referring just to Bay Ganyo here. There are other examples like the TV series One Too Many Residents of the Capital. It is a comedy, a spoof.
One thing that I note, with appreciation, is that Bulgarians read a lot. I cannot believe the number of bookshops in central Sofia.
Meeting with British medical students at the Thracian University in Stara Zagora
What would you recommend to friends of yours coming here on a visit?
All of the historical centre of Sofia is beautiful. I think the capital has a tremendous amount of charm. It has fascinating buildings on every corner, lovely villas from the 19th and the 20th century. In addition, there are some remnants of the Ottoman period and some gripping ruins from the Roman era. There is also the Stalinist Baroque stuff, if that is your kind of thing. I would suggest friends explore the quaint streets in the centre with the 19th-20th century villas, the small coffee shops and the restaurants in-between.
If they have children, I would suggest taking them to Muzeiko, a very nice and informative new museum. The other thing is Кoкolandia, the adventure park: a genuine tree-top experience.
Sofia is blessed with the Vitosha mountain range. I can think of few other capitals with access to mountains like the Vitosha. You can get on tram No. 5 outside the Palace of Justice and be in Knyazhevo in no time.
If they have more time, going out of Sofia will be in order. Plovdiv is fantastic, a very nice place to go to. I think every town in Bulgaria has something special about it. I mean every place outside the obvious tourist sites has something to offer.
Welcome with bread and honey by secondary school pupils in Stara Zagora
Last but not least, take some time to appreciate the extraordinary historical, archaeological and cultural treasures Bulgaria has to offer.
And what would you tell your friends to be careful about?
Do not come to Bulgaria with any preconceptions of what you think it's going to be like because you are probably wrong. Bulgaria is one of those countries that are generally not very well-known in the UK. Brits have come to Bansko and probably to Sunny Beach. But that's not all of Bulgaria and it is not the most interesting part. Don't think it's going to be much like the rest of this place we used to call Eastern Europe. It is not like Poland or Czechia, it is not like the Baltic states and not particularly like Hungary. It stands on its own at the gate of Europe. Enjoy it for what it is. Get off the tourist trail and visit the smaller towns and villages that are absolutely exquisite. Try to visit some Bulgarians, very hospitable people. Then you will discover that Bulgarians do know how to enjoy themselves.
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