DAY OF ST GEORGE BULGARIAN STYLE

For Bulgarians, Gergyovden is central to national identity, and this is not only because of the connection to the heroic legend of the slaying of the dragon and the bravery of Bulgarian soldiers. St George is also the patron of sheep, livestock and shepherds.

HOW TO ENJOY RAKIYA

The easiest way for a foreigner to raise a Bulgarian brow concerns a sacrosanct pillar of national identity: rakiya, the spirit that Bulgarians drink at weddings, funerals, for lunch, at protracted dinners; because they are sad or joyful, and sometimes because they do not have anything better to do. Inexperienced foreigners tend to make three types of faux pas when they try rakiya for the first time.

SOFIA'S PARTY HOUSE

Built in 1954, the Party House was a grandiose propaganda piece designed to epitomise the strong grip the Communist Party had over the political, social, economic and even personal life of the citizens of the People's Republic of Bulgaria. Just 10 years had passed since the BKP took power in a Soviet-backed coup, and from there the party managed to deal with both internal and external opposition, to turn the Bulgarian economy upside down, and to transform the country into the USSR's most loyal satellite.

BLAST FROM THE PAST*

Obviously, to produce an informed ruling, the courts will have to consider whether being called a mutra is offensive. To do that they will need the help of linguists to elucidate whether the word mutra is good or bad. Linguists will have to turn to sociologists who will explain public sentiments, possibly based on polls, to assess prevailing attitudes to what a mutra in Bulgaria is. 

WHAT IS A MUTRA?

Under Communism, the Bulgarian word mutra generally meant mugface. It was used as a slur to describe someone, usually a man, as ugly and repugnant. After the collapse of Communism, in the 1990s, the meaning of the word changed.

WHO WAS MAGDALINA STANCHEVA?

Archaeologist single-handedly defies Communist establishment, saves ruins of Central Sofia

Magdalina Stancheva (1924-2014) was a unlikely hero from the time when opposition to the government could result in the end of your career, imprisonment – or worse.

LONG ROAD HOME FOR LT CROUCHLEY

Americans, Bulgarians help bring remains of WW2 serviceman back to USA

Crouchley's crash was witnessed by villagers in Churen, Plovdiv region, Bulgaria. Although the pilot was technically their enemy, they pulled his remains from the aircraft and gave him a proper burial, putting a cross over his grave.

FRANCE IN BULGARIA

French travellers, diplomats, writers entwined in Bulgaria's urban landscapes, history

Bulgaria and France are far apart and their contacts have been rare and often mired in conflict. And yet, as streets, squares and schools in Bulgaria record, the two nations also had some common ground. 

WHAT TO DO WITH BULGARIA'S FLYING SAUCER?

Rightwing groups reject international calls for preservation of Communist-era heritage

What is Buzludzha? Here is a synopsis of how the "Flying Saucer" appeared on top of this 1,441-metres-above-sea-level peak in the Stara Planina.

WHO WAS STEFAN STAMBOLOV?

Controversial politician of late 19th century still divides Bulgarians

Stambolov was the first Bulgarian prime minister who borrowed money from Europe. He spent most of the loans on infrastructure and modernising the army.

BRIDGES OF FREEDOM

America's War of Independence and Bulgaria's April Uprising began in a similar way: on a bridge

Most of the tourists visiting Koprivshtitsa, a town of beautiful traditional houses in the Sredna Gora mountains, pause at a certain bridge. Small and humpbacked, it does not look that important. And yet, it is.

CASABLANCA'S BULGARIAN CONNECTION

Wartime movie of intrigue, romance, inspiration may have been inspired by life in... Sofia

By the way, I understand that the US State Department was rather shocked by it all, but that President Roosevelt was said to have remarked that he would have given anything to have been there and witnessed it all.

WHO WAS NIKOLAY PIROGOV?

If you have been living in Sofia for a while, you must already be familiar with the name

Nikolay Pirogov was a pioneering physician who revolutionised war-time field surgery and played a significant role in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878, which restored the Bulgarian state.

DO YOU SPEAK ESPERANTO?

Artificial 'language for everyone' failed to bring world peace, but is still used around the world, Bulgaria included

Esperanto is the most used and the most successful constructed language in the world. Between 30,000 and 2,000,000 people in more than 100 countries are believed to be fluent in Esperanto.

FALL OF 1,300 YEARS OF BULGARIA

Demolition of huge Communist-era monument turns as controversial as monument itself

Ironically, the crumbling 35-metre-high angular construction of granite plates and metal, crowned with ghostly statues and disintegrated slogans, is named 1,300 Years of Bulgaria.

THE IRISHMAN WHO DANCED THE HORO

It is an image that stays in the mind

In a brightly-lit, austere tavern, a pair of men in traditional Bulgarian costume dance, surrounded by onlookers. Rachenitsa is a horo popular all over Bulgaria and is usually danced by one or two men, not holding hands, but on their own. 

HELL IS NO JOKE

What first attracts your attention in a Bulgarian Revival Period church?

Have you noticed the river of fire, on the outside western wall of most of the churches, flowing towards the gaping mouth of a dragon-like monster? Have you bent to see in detail the devils in the flames? Have you wondered what were the crimes of the sinners they torture?

BRINGING ANTIQUITY BACK TO LIFE

Fine mosaics of Plovdiv's Bishop's Basilica see light of day for first time in 1,500 years

In October 2016, a thick layer of soil and debris covering an ancient mosaic for centuries was removed to reveal a stunning mosaic of a peacock with a tail fanned to show all of its majestic colours.