SEARCHING FOR ORPHEUS

by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

Tatul, Thracian rock shrine in Rhodope, claims to be 'tomb' of mythical musician

orpheus grave tatul bulgaria
The rock pyramid at Tatul is one of the most enigmatic ancient megaliths in Europe

Huddled deep among the hills of the Eastern Rhodope, Tatul could be any one of the many hamlets that you pass through while travelling in this area. Yet, it is not an ordinary Rhodope village. A high rocky hill rises about 300m south of it, crowned by one of the most peculiar megalithic structures the Thracians ever made.

On the hilltop, a 4.5-metre-high monolithic stone mass rises in the shape of a truncated pyramid. A semi-circular niche that overhangs a sarcophagus-like stone tomb is carved into one of its sides. A second rectangular basin nearly 2m long is hollowed out at the top of the pyramid, and its resemblance to a sarcophagus is stunning.

The second sarcophagus can only be seen if you climb a flight of steep, narrow and vertiginous steps.

In spite of its spectacular appearance, the Thracian shrine at Tatul has not been extensively researched, barring excavations in the 1970s, which focused on its late Antiquity and mediaeval fortifications, and again in the 2000s.

Orpheus grave

The sanctuary is located on a hill visible from all around

The sanctuary was founded between the 18th and the 11th centuries BC, and was active well into the 1st millennium BC. During the Hellenistic era, at the end of the 4th and the first half of the 3rd centuries BC, the shrine was fortified with a wall enclosing several sacred buildings. One of these, dubbed Building No. 1, is Tatul's most impressive structure, notwithstanding the stone pyramid of course. Building No. 1 has been interpreted as a heroon, or a temple to a deified ancestor from the 4th century BC.

And yet Tatul has acquired a different fame thanks to the sensationalist media and the Internet. According to the well-publicised hype, the stone pyramid is where Orpheus, the mythical musician who went to Hell and then returned, was buried.

Several ancient Greek sources say that Orpheus was a Thracian musician, poet and prophet of the so-called Orphic mysteries. His playing of the lyre was so captivating and his songs so beautiful that not a single creature on earth could remain unmoved by his gift. The stories about how Orpheus was born, how he lived and how he died, however, differ according to whoever told them. All his biographers were born centuries after he died.

There were two noted events in his mythical life, and they have stirred the human imagination for centuries. The first tells of Orpheus's descent into Hell. So distraught was the musician by the sudden death of his wife, Eurydice, that he descended into the Kingdom of the Dead and, with a song, softened the hearts of Hades and Persephone. Eurydice was allowed to return to life on one condition: Orpheus was to walk in front of his wife and was not to look back until both of them had seen the light of the sun. As is common with this kind of myth, Orpheus did turn round.

Orpheus grave

The second story follows on from the first. The distraught Orpheus angered either a group of women or the Maenads of Dionysus (the accounts vary), who murdered him with their bare hands or by stoning. The reputed whereabouts of the remains of Orpheus are Pieria, on mainland Greece (Aeschylus), and Dion, at the foot of Mount Olympus (Pausanias). His lyre and severed head were then carried by the Maritsa River and waves of the sea to Lesbos, where they started to foretell the future.

In 2002 Greek archaeologists announced that they had found the likely site of the Orphean oracle on Lesbos. Bulgarian historians countered this with the theory that the grave of Orpheus might be in Tatul.

How did it come about that the names Tatul and Orpheus began to be used in the same sentence?

This is the result of the practical application of a bold theory, developed by the late historian Professor Aleksandar Fol. It posits that Orpheus was a real person who lived in the 2nd millennium BC and was of Thracian origin, and that he achieved the reformation of the religion of an entire people.

Before Orpheus, the Thracians believed in an elemental Dionysus, the god of unbridled ecstasy and darkness in both nature and the human soul. Orpheus introduced the Thracians to a new deity, the bright, spiritual god Apollo, who promised everyone who followed him a life after death. However, this new religion was confined only to aristocrats and a chosen few who were introduced to his teaching, and only they could hope to live forever after death.

Orpheus statue

A modern sculpture depicting Orpheus and Eurydice in the town of Smolyan

Professor Fol's theory was applied to Tatul in the mid-2000s, as it was reputed to have been a shrine to Orpheus and also his possible resting place. Circumstantial evidence abounds. The sepulchral complex has no known equivalent in the Balkans, and it is obvious that it was designed for a very important person who, perhaps, not only reformed the religion, but was also a senior nobleman.

The sarcophagus atop the pyramid is so high that it appears to be looking towards the sky and the sun. Orpheus was, after all, a disciple of Apollo, the sun god. One of the legends about the death of the musician claims that he was torn to pieces by the Maenads precisely because he had chosen to bow before Apollo instead of Dionysus.

This hypothesis gained momentum in the 2000s, and in 2005 a find from the area gave it additional weight. Some villagers claimed to have discovered near the shrine a statuette of a nude Greco-Roman deity with a lyre. The artefact dates from the 1st or the 2nd centuries AD and possibly depicts Apollo. Some researchers, however, claim that it is actually a rare image of Orpheus.

This piece of circumstantial evidence, boosted by the curiosity of tourists and media sensationalism, transformed Tatul. Today the shrine is popularly known as the "Grave of Orpheus" and the site, complete with a concrete path, benches and signposts, features on all the Rhodope tourist routes. Sadly, the metal roof protecting some of the excavated structures is not particularly inspiring for those who come to wonder at this magnificent place. 

  • COMMENTING RULES

    Commenting on www.vagabond.bg

    Vagabond Media Ltd requires you to submit a valid email to comment on www.vagabond.bg to secure that you are not a bot or a spammer. Learn more on how the company manages your personal information on our Privacy Policy. By filling the comment form you declare that you will not use www.vagabond.bg for the purpose of violating the laws of the Republic of Bulgaria. When commenting on www.vagabond.bg please observe some simple rules. You must avoid sexually explicit language and racist, vulgar, religiously intolerant or obscene comments aiming to insult Vagabond Media Ltd, other companies, countries, nationalities, confessions or authors of postings and/or other comments. Do not post spam. Write in English. Unsolicited commercial messages, obscene postings and personal attacks will be removed without notice. The comments will be moderated and may take some time to appear on www.vagabond.bg.

Add new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.

Restricted HTML

  • Allowed HTML tags: <a href hreflang> <em> <strong> <cite> <blockquote cite> <code> <ul type> <ol start type> <li> <dl> <dt> <dd> <h2 id> <h3 id> <h4 id> <h5 id> <h6 id>
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Web page addresses and email addresses turn into links automatically.
Disclaimers

us4bg-logo-reversal.pngVibrant Communities: Spotlight on Bulgaria's Living Heritage is a series of articles, initiated by Vagabond Magazine and realised by the Free Speech Foundation, with the generous support of the America for Bulgaria Foundation, that aims to provide details and background of places, cultural entities, events, personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understand for the outsider in the Balkans. The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgaria's cultural heritage – including but not limited to archaeological, cultural and ethnic diversity. The statements and opinions expressed herein are solely those of the FSI and do not necessarily reflect the views of the America for Bulgaria Foundation or its affiliates.

Подкрепата за Фондация "Фрий спийч интернешънъл" е осигурена от Фондация "Америка за България". Изявленията и мненията, изразени тук, принадлежат единствено на ФСИ и не отразяват непременно вижданията на Фондация Америка за България или нейните партньори.



Discover More

BULGARIA'S BEST SCENIC DRIVES, PART2
Anyone who is even remotely interested in looking at the world from the window of a car will instantly know that driving through Bulgaria's lesser and off-the-beaten track roads is absolutely the best way to take in the natural and cultural beauties of this

FOR WHOM THE BELLS RING?
Beyond the E871 highway and after the last premises of Sofia's Business Park, a white metal palisade shields an immense building site. The borehole drilling resonates from within. The summer sun is burning.

PAST MEETS PRESENT IN RUSE
When the young Patrick Leigh Fermor – a man considered one of the 20th century greatest travel writers – visited Ruse in 1934, he stumbled upon a strange town.

BULGARIA'S BEST SCENIC DRIVES
These include, but are not limited to, bad or non-existent asphalt, unpredictable and uncared-for potholes, confusing signage, maniacal drivers and traffic cops that contribute to the problems rather than try to solve them.

A PIECE OF MITTELEUROPA IN BULGARIA
Whitewashed houses of stone and clay brick, with bay windows and heavy roofs of crooked tiles or even stone slabs: this is what Bulgarian traditional villages and towns look like.

RUSSIA'S ENCLAVE AT BULGARIAN BLACK SEA COAST
Stretching for over 12 km, the sand ribbon by the Black Sea between Shkorpilovtsi to the south and Kamchiya to the north is a quiet spot blessed with clean sand, pristine sea and a thick longoz forest abuzz with wildlife, including the region's notorious mo

BULGARIA'S LAST DICTATOR
А wise ruler who made Bulgaria a regional and international political and technological leader, and who tirelessly worked for the prosperity of the entire nation. A stupid person who caused the Bulgarian economy to collapse at least twice.

LOOKING INTO AHINORA'S EYES
The throngs of tourists jostling for a better view of the Mona Lisa have become so overwhelming that the Louvre is already planning to exhibit it in a separate space.

IMAGES OF JAZZ
Increasingly, many Bulgarians towns and even villages these days host jazz festivals of various standing and quality.

HEAD SOUTH!
With established resorts, new resorts and resorts under construction, the southern Bulgarian Black Sea coast sometimes appears to be one big development site.

WHERE IS DOBRICH?
Аt first glance Dobrich might disappoint. The town is in the heart of Dobrudzha, in a region that's one of the first where the Proto-Bulgars settled at the end of the 7th century.

DAYS AT SEA: HEAD NORTH!
Summer is here, so going to the seaside for some fun, sun, sand and a swim is no longer a whim – it is a necessity! But where should you go?